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Place paper covering over your work area. Any paper will
do. Collect your supplies.
I use a tackle box to hold most of my supplies:
Choosing the proper wicking can be critically important. A wick that is too small will smother itself with the melting wax. A wick that is too large will cause the candle to smoke and burn quickly, and the wax to run over the sides. The following are my wick recommendations, and the effects that they will have.
Regular (bleached) wick:
small: Taper and votive (dripless)
Wire core wick
small: votive and candles of 2 inch diameter
A note about wire wicks. As the cotton burns away, the wire will melt, and droop. Drooping will cause uneven burning, while the melted wire creates black specks in the candle wax. Some of this may be eliminated by keeping the wire trimmed. Be careful not to trim too much.
Lead core wick
I have not yet formed an opinion on lead core wicks
For plastic molds, place your wick into the groove and secure. Tape will work to secure it, but mold sealer is better. Lay the wick down so that it will protrude from the pour spout when the mold is snapped together. Snap the mold together. Use your fingers and press around all the grooved areas to assure a tight fit. Wrap the protruding end around your wick retainer and secure the retainer to the mold.
For metal molds insert the wick through the hole in the mold until it protrudes from the opposite end of the mold. Tie the end to the wick retainer. Pull taught. Insert and tighten the retaining screw. Cut wick approximately 1 inch from the screw. Secure the wick retainer to the mold. Use mold sealer on the screw and on any other seams where wax may leak.
I have only used regular candlewax at this time. Other waxes
are available for various purposes.
When the wax reaches 190 degrees add your coloring. After mixing with the wax, place a little on some paper. It will dry almost instantly and give you your color. Add more coloring or wax to reach your desired color. Remember to keep track of your wax and coloring amounts so that you can match batches.
Remember that too much coloring can ruin plastic and rubber mold
Add your scenting. Scent to taste. Avoid using too much scent as the essential oils will mottle the candle in too high a concentration. Remember to track your amounts.
Make sure your molds are at room temperature.
If possible, do not pour hot wax near or in the sink.
Wax will clog your drain pipes.
For metal molds allow wax to reach 200 degrees. Wax that is too cold may trap air bubbles. Remove pot from boiler and wipe off excess moisture from the side of the pot to avoid water entering the mold. Slowly pour the wax holding the mold at an angle until almost full. Level mold and fill to top. Make sure the wick retainer is straight when finished.
For rubber molds: I have not used a rubber mold yet.
Filling the well
The well is formed as the wax cools and settles.
For metal molds carefully fill the well. If too much is used and the hot wax gets between the mold and the cooler wax you will have a very difficult time removing the candle from the mold.
Plan on repeating this steps 2 or 3 additional times depending on the size of your candle.allowing about 45 minutes between pouring.
Cleaning your metal molds may be accomplished by placing them on a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil. Set your oven on 175 degrees. Place the cookie sheet into the oven. The oven must not exceed 175 degrees or the solder of your mold may melt. A mold cleaner may be purchased, but I have not used it.
Remember that candlemaking is fun. Experiment. Keep track of your recipes in a journal.
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Last updated 01/23/00